Scratching is a natural behavior for cats, no matter how it might impact the fabric on your $5,000 new sofa. You cat isn’t scratching to defy you - but he is sending you a message. That message is, “give me something to scratch!”
When his urge to scratch hits, he isn’t too picky about what to scratch. In the wild, everything is fair game. Your cat isn’t trying to damage your belongings. He’s trying to sharpen his claws.
In the wild, a cat might use a tree trunk or fence post for scratching. But since your living room probably lacks those things, the next best thing is something wooden, like the legs on your expensive new coffee table.
Declawing your cat isn’t the only way to protect your furniture. Instead of going to this extreme, set up a few standing scratch posts around your house for your cat to scratch. He’ll be happy to have his own scratching place - which is better suited to his needs anyway.
Scratching means more to your cat than just a way to tend his claws. Declawing your cat won’t stop the other natural reasons for scratching, like being playful. A scratching post is a great stress reliever for your cat.
Some cats use the post as a pretend playmate. They also have a need to conquer perceived foes. Your cat may take on the scratching post, gripping it with his claws and wrestling it into submission.
Make sure the post is anchored solidly. If the post is too easy to tip over, your cat may ignore it in favor of that nice, stable dining room table leg. If your cat plays with the scratching post when you’re home, but returns to the chair when you’re not around, you may have to resort to a trick.
Knowing that your cat has very keen sense of smell, hang bold fragrance room deodorizer or commercial cat repellant near the chair. Your cat will not enjoy scratching in that location anymore.
Place the approved scratched post in a location where the smell factor is neutral and where there’s some privacy so your cat can sneak up on the post as a pretend prey. When the scratching post looks worn out, don’t be so quick to toss it.
Instead, put the new post beside the old post until your cat starts to use it. After you see some wear on the new post, then you can throw away the old one.
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Monday, June 1, 2009
Entertaining a Cat Isn't Always Easy
Poor cat - he’s a victim of the myth that cats are indifferent to attention. That’s not true for every cat. A bored cat can create just as much havoc around your home as an unsupervised toddler - maybe even more.
In fact, strange behavior in your cat is often a sign that he’s trying desperately to get you involved in his world. How do you entertain a cat? First you start spending time with your cat on a regular basis and see what amuses him.
Spending time isn’t the same as simply being in the same room - arriving home, getting on the computer and chatting on the phone. Your cat isn’t amused by watching you and may do some irritating things, like spin the paper off the toilet roll.
Or he might eat paper - perhaps your notes for tomorrow’s client proposal. Put away your work and clear a play space. Get down on the floor at your cat’s level as you interact with him.
Pick two small cat toys and bring out one at a time for your play session. Start with a small rolling toy or hold a toy fish on a pole and dangle it for your cat to swat. Does he keep playing until you stop or does he walk away on his own? If the toy doesn’t hold his interest, put it away and try another toy tomorrow.
Be careful to choose only toys suited for cats. Children’s toys are not pet toys, no matter how cute you think the idea is. So forget the wind-up mouse your kid got in a Happy Meal. Unless it’s made for a cat, there are small parts or mechanisms that could be harmful to your pet.
Look at pet shops online or in local pet stores for movable toys if your cat favors something to chase down and catch. That’s a natural hunting behavior for your cat, so make sure he has a way to act on his urge conquer.
Once you know what type of toy your cat favors, look for two similar toys. Take a cue for the way parents alternate toys for children and rotate your cat’s toys after a few weeks. Keep the toys that you use for interactive play apart from toys that you leave for his solo play. That way the toys you enjoy together are special.
While you’re at work or out during the day, leave some interesting toys for your cat. You can even buy small plastic balls that can be refilled with dry cat food. Your cat can roll the ball then discover the food treat inside.
That also satisfies his hunting instinct and provides a snack. If your cat is happier when busy, be sure you provide enough stimulation for playtime and most of all, enough time with you - his favorite playmate.
In fact, strange behavior in your cat is often a sign that he’s trying desperately to get you involved in his world. How do you entertain a cat? First you start spending time with your cat on a regular basis and see what amuses him.
Spending time isn’t the same as simply being in the same room - arriving home, getting on the computer and chatting on the phone. Your cat isn’t amused by watching you and may do some irritating things, like spin the paper off the toilet roll.
Or he might eat paper - perhaps your notes for tomorrow’s client proposal. Put away your work and clear a play space. Get down on the floor at your cat’s level as you interact with him.
Pick two small cat toys and bring out one at a time for your play session. Start with a small rolling toy or hold a toy fish on a pole and dangle it for your cat to swat. Does he keep playing until you stop or does he walk away on his own? If the toy doesn’t hold his interest, put it away and try another toy tomorrow.
Be careful to choose only toys suited for cats. Children’s toys are not pet toys, no matter how cute you think the idea is. So forget the wind-up mouse your kid got in a Happy Meal. Unless it’s made for a cat, there are small parts or mechanisms that could be harmful to your pet.
Look at pet shops online or in local pet stores for movable toys if your cat favors something to chase down and catch. That’s a natural hunting behavior for your cat, so make sure he has a way to act on his urge conquer.
Once you know what type of toy your cat favors, look for two similar toys. Take a cue for the way parents alternate toys for children and rotate your cat’s toys after a few weeks. Keep the toys that you use for interactive play apart from toys that you leave for his solo play. That way the toys you enjoy together are special.
While you’re at work or out during the day, leave some interesting toys for your cat. You can even buy small plastic balls that can be refilled with dry cat food. Your cat can roll the ball then discover the food treat inside.
That also satisfies his hunting instinct and provides a snack. If your cat is happier when busy, be sure you provide enough stimulation for playtime and most of all, enough time with you - his favorite playmate.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Does Your Cat React Oddly to Cat Nip?
Catnip isn’t just a cat thing. Actually catnip is a nickname for a plant that comes from the mint family. For a cat, catnip is like one too many martinis. The reaction may be wild and crazy or totally oblivious in that classic “who cares” manner that cats do so well.
Inside catnip is a chemical element called “nepetalactone,” which seems to prompt amazing reactions that are different for each cat. While you can’t smell it, catnip has a unique scent to a feline.
The typical cat pauses to sniff this unusual substance and maybe give it a small lick. Then the cat returns to chew on the catnip leaves. Some cats love to roll around in the catnip and get it all over their fur.
Shortly after ingesting catnip, a cat may leap, roll, wiggle, purr and seem to freak out. The cat may become aggressive toward another pet when under the influence of catnip. Another cat may nibble the catnip, grin broadly and quietly savor the experience. Fortunately this catnip “trip” lasts just a matter of minutes.
Although coming down from the catnip may take a few hours before your cat responds normally. Older cats seem less vulnerable or perhaps less interested in the catnip experience. Very young kittens also are less interested in catnip.
Catnip can be purchased in a pet store in dried leaf form or as an essential oil. Just a small drop of the oil is all that’s needed to get a reaction. You can also purchase catnip-scented toys. The potency of catnip declines over time.
So toss out the old toys regularly and get fresh catnip toys so your cat gets the same enjoyment out of it. While catnip is related to other common plants like basil, spearmint and oregano, those plants don’t have the same effect on cats.
Catnip is an aphrodisiac for some cats - causing them to become very amorous with another cat. So you have to wonder, can a cat become addicted to catnip? While each catnip nibble is a delight for your cat, he’s not going to trash the house or sell your car to get more.
Cats won’t become addicted to catnip, but it is a treat you can provide for your feline friend a few times a week. If you have more than one cat, give them each their own little pile of catnip so that they don’t have to compete for the pleasure against one another.
Inside catnip is a chemical element called “nepetalactone,” which seems to prompt amazing reactions that are different for each cat. While you can’t smell it, catnip has a unique scent to a feline.
The typical cat pauses to sniff this unusual substance and maybe give it a small lick. Then the cat returns to chew on the catnip leaves. Some cats love to roll around in the catnip and get it all over their fur.
Shortly after ingesting catnip, a cat may leap, roll, wiggle, purr and seem to freak out. The cat may become aggressive toward another pet when under the influence of catnip. Another cat may nibble the catnip, grin broadly and quietly savor the experience. Fortunately this catnip “trip” lasts just a matter of minutes.
Although coming down from the catnip may take a few hours before your cat responds normally. Older cats seem less vulnerable or perhaps less interested in the catnip experience. Very young kittens also are less interested in catnip.
Catnip can be purchased in a pet store in dried leaf form or as an essential oil. Just a small drop of the oil is all that’s needed to get a reaction. You can also purchase catnip-scented toys. The potency of catnip declines over time.
So toss out the old toys regularly and get fresh catnip toys so your cat gets the same enjoyment out of it. While catnip is related to other common plants like basil, spearmint and oregano, those plants don’t have the same effect on cats.
Catnip is an aphrodisiac for some cats - causing them to become very amorous with another cat. So you have to wonder, can a cat become addicted to catnip? While each catnip nibble is a delight for your cat, he’s not going to trash the house or sell your car to get more.
Cats won’t become addicted to catnip, but it is a treat you can provide for your feline friend a few times a week. If you have more than one cat, give them each their own little pile of catnip so that they don’t have to compete for the pleasure against one another.
Saturday, May 30, 2009
The Competitive Sport of Dog Agility
Dog agility is gaining speed as one of Europe and America’s best animal sports. In dog agility, a handler guides the dog in going through a course in the least amount of time possible.
The dog cannot be confined to a leash during agility competitions. As the clock ticks on, the dog has to complete various obstacles, ranging from jumps to pipes as spectators watch from the stands.
Dog agility is a knock off of equestrian stadium jumping, but it now has its own obstacles, rules and scoring agenda separate from the original root source. There are numerous organizations that cater to dog agility participants.
In the United States, you can find organizations that conduct trials through local dog training clubs. These groups adhere to the rigid international rules for agility performance.
During a dog agility competition, the participants are judged, not only on speed, but also on physical performance within the obstacle course. Each country also has its own set of domestic rules they sometimes go by, such as scoring that is handler-based rather than performance-based.
Ideally, the organization handling the trial will ensure that the agility obstacle course is designed with the safety of the dog in mind. For instance, if a dog calculates distance wrong, he won’t get injured on the jump bar because they’re displaceable. And surfaces are roughened up before competitions to ensure the dog doesn’t slip or slide and get injured during an agility competition.
During an agility competition, the animals and handlers will participate in various obstacle courses that offer different levels of challenge based on the pet’s level of ability. When the trial begins, the handler has to maneuver the dog through the course without use of a leash or reward, beating the complicated course in the least amount of time.
As the dog and its handler participate in more agility trials, they will usually move up to a higher level of competition, where the courses get more complex and higher levels of skill are required.
When a dog does something wrong during a competition, it’s known as a “fault,” and they are penalized if they go over the standard time calculations. Dogs of equal size are pitted against one another in divisions. Then the animal that participates in the agility training and garners the shortest time and least number of faults wins, along with its handler who helped guide him through the course.
The dog cannot be confined to a leash during agility competitions. As the clock ticks on, the dog has to complete various obstacles, ranging from jumps to pipes as spectators watch from the stands.
Dog agility is a knock off of equestrian stadium jumping, but it now has its own obstacles, rules and scoring agenda separate from the original root source. There are numerous organizations that cater to dog agility participants.
In the United States, you can find organizations that conduct trials through local dog training clubs. These groups adhere to the rigid international rules for agility performance.
During a dog agility competition, the participants are judged, not only on speed, but also on physical performance within the obstacle course. Each country also has its own set of domestic rules they sometimes go by, such as scoring that is handler-based rather than performance-based.
Ideally, the organization handling the trial will ensure that the agility obstacle course is designed with the safety of the dog in mind. For instance, if a dog calculates distance wrong, he won’t get injured on the jump bar because they’re displaceable. And surfaces are roughened up before competitions to ensure the dog doesn’t slip or slide and get injured during an agility competition.
During an agility competition, the animals and handlers will participate in various obstacle courses that offer different levels of challenge based on the pet’s level of ability. When the trial begins, the handler has to maneuver the dog through the course without use of a leash or reward, beating the complicated course in the least amount of time.
As the dog and its handler participate in more agility trials, they will usually move up to a higher level of competition, where the courses get more complex and higher levels of skill are required.
When a dog does something wrong during a competition, it’s known as a “fault,” and they are penalized if they go over the standard time calculations. Dogs of equal size are pitted against one another in divisions. Then the animal that participates in the agility training and garners the shortest time and least number of faults wins, along with its handler who helped guide him through the course.
Friday, May 29, 2009
Watch Your Dog’s Diet During the Housetraining Process
As your dog is learning to follow a potty break routine, you have to avoid doing anything that makes the lessons harder. One way you can help this process is in managing the dog’s food intake.
As you monitor and log the crate time and potty breaks, you’ll notice a pattern in your dog’s elimination. Make sure that the food you provide and the timing of feedings don’t compromise training.
Feed your dog at the same time each day. If you feed him in the morning before leaving for work, put out the food as soon as you wake up. The dog can eat and begin to digest the food while you’re getting dressed and having your breakfast.
Then the dog will be ready to potty before you leave. Never leave the dog food out all day. If your dog (especially a puppy) eats gradually all day long without a potty break, you’re asking for an accident to happen.
For crate training a puppy, make sure there’s a supply of water in a container that won’t tip. Also leave a few small dog biscuits or treats in case he gets hungry during the day - but don’t leave a full meal.
When you get home, take the dog out and then feed him. Don’t wait until late evening to feed dinner to the puppy or you’ll be cleaning up feces in the crate or on the rug. Allow a reasonable time for the digestion to occur.
No matter how much the dog begs, don’t give table scraps or snack foods. These are not well tolerated by most dogs and some snack foods can be harmful to the dog (and not so great for you either).
Just because a dog will eat what you give him in food scraps doesn’t mean it’s suitable for him. Feeding him the wrong kind of foods is likely to result in doggie diarrhea. If you don’t give your dog the non-nutrient snacks and junk that you eat, he won’t develop a taste for it - which is definitely better for everyone in the long run.
High quality dog food is made with added nutrients and designed for the age and weight of your dog. If you’re on a budget, find a place to skimp besides your dog food budget. Cheap dog foods can contain ingredients that cause stomach upset and have minimal nutritional value, so your dog may get fat but doesn’t grow and thrive.
If your dog gets diarrhea (even from high quality foods), check with your vet. There may be an ingredient in the food that doesn’t interact well with your dog’s digestive system. Ask the vet for a recommendation. If the next high quality food gets the same results, then your dog may have an internal illness or food allergy that the vet can diagnose.
As you monitor and log the crate time and potty breaks, you’ll notice a pattern in your dog’s elimination. Make sure that the food you provide and the timing of feedings don’t compromise training.
Feed your dog at the same time each day. If you feed him in the morning before leaving for work, put out the food as soon as you wake up. The dog can eat and begin to digest the food while you’re getting dressed and having your breakfast.
Then the dog will be ready to potty before you leave. Never leave the dog food out all day. If your dog (especially a puppy) eats gradually all day long without a potty break, you’re asking for an accident to happen.
For crate training a puppy, make sure there’s a supply of water in a container that won’t tip. Also leave a few small dog biscuits or treats in case he gets hungry during the day - but don’t leave a full meal.
When you get home, take the dog out and then feed him. Don’t wait until late evening to feed dinner to the puppy or you’ll be cleaning up feces in the crate or on the rug. Allow a reasonable time for the digestion to occur.
No matter how much the dog begs, don’t give table scraps or snack foods. These are not well tolerated by most dogs and some snack foods can be harmful to the dog (and not so great for you either).
Just because a dog will eat what you give him in food scraps doesn’t mean it’s suitable for him. Feeding him the wrong kind of foods is likely to result in doggie diarrhea. If you don’t give your dog the non-nutrient snacks and junk that you eat, he won’t develop a taste for it - which is definitely better for everyone in the long run.
High quality dog food is made with added nutrients and designed for the age and weight of your dog. If you’re on a budget, find a place to skimp besides your dog food budget. Cheap dog foods can contain ingredients that cause stomach upset and have minimal nutritional value, so your dog may get fat but doesn’t grow and thrive.
If your dog gets diarrhea (even from high quality foods), check with your vet. There may be an ingredient in the food that doesn’t interact well with your dog’s digestive system. Ask the vet for a recommendation. If the next high quality food gets the same results, then your dog may have an internal illness or food allergy that the vet can diagnose.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
What If You Don’t Want to Crate Train?
You might think that crates are great for shipping cargo, but that dogs are living creatures who deserve better than that. To you, bringing a dog into your home is adding to your family.
It’s not a toy to put in the crate while you’re busy and take out a few hours when you have time. You believe that’s not fair to the dog. Crate training may be a popular method for housetraining, but you don’t have to do this to successfully train your dog.
As you’re training the dog to wait between potty breaks or until you return home, you can isolate him in a smaller area. A bathroom, laundry room or tiled kitchen is a good choice. The room needs to have an easy to clean floor.
Either close the door or add a baby gate. When you’re at home, use the baby gate so that you can observe the dog and so that he doesn’t feel punished by being away from you. You can also watch for the physical signs that he needs a potty break.
Dogs have their own signature moves - some seem agitated, restless or shake when they need to have a break. Others sniff in a circle and begin squatting when the time comes. You still need to follow the same approach for establishing a regular feeding schedule and follow-up with potty breaks.
When you come home to take the dog out to go potty, put the leash on him and head directly outside. Don’t let him run around the house celebrating his freedom. In his excitement, he’ll leave a puddle on the rug - not because he’s mad at you, but because his enthusiasm overcame his bladder control.
Crate training advocates insist that this is the best and fastest way to housetrain a dog. Opponents totally disagree, countering that the difference of a few weeks is nothing compared to having a well-adjusted dog that feels like a member of the family rather than a prisoner of war most of the day.
If your dog is in a small room, he probably has far more space than in a crate. He also has a tall ceiling above him, so he feels free and happy. He can designate a spot in the room for an emergency potty and still have room to get away from it.
Your dog is going to be a member of your family for many years. So what if it takes a little longer to housetrain him? You may have to use the small room training location for nights until he’s old enough or well trained enough to wait until morning to go potty.
This isn’t the time to weaken and put him in your bed. You’ll both wake up in a chilly puddle. Give him time to adjust to the training, and then you can welcome him to a soft bed in your room, or surrender the extra pillow if you choose.
It’s not a toy to put in the crate while you’re busy and take out a few hours when you have time. You believe that’s not fair to the dog. Crate training may be a popular method for housetraining, but you don’t have to do this to successfully train your dog.
As you’re training the dog to wait between potty breaks or until you return home, you can isolate him in a smaller area. A bathroom, laundry room or tiled kitchen is a good choice. The room needs to have an easy to clean floor.
Either close the door or add a baby gate. When you’re at home, use the baby gate so that you can observe the dog and so that he doesn’t feel punished by being away from you. You can also watch for the physical signs that he needs a potty break.
Dogs have their own signature moves - some seem agitated, restless or shake when they need to have a break. Others sniff in a circle and begin squatting when the time comes. You still need to follow the same approach for establishing a regular feeding schedule and follow-up with potty breaks.
When you come home to take the dog out to go potty, put the leash on him and head directly outside. Don’t let him run around the house celebrating his freedom. In his excitement, he’ll leave a puddle on the rug - not because he’s mad at you, but because his enthusiasm overcame his bladder control.
Crate training advocates insist that this is the best and fastest way to housetrain a dog. Opponents totally disagree, countering that the difference of a few weeks is nothing compared to having a well-adjusted dog that feels like a member of the family rather than a prisoner of war most of the day.
If your dog is in a small room, he probably has far more space than in a crate. He also has a tall ceiling above him, so he feels free and happy. He can designate a spot in the room for an emergency potty and still have room to get away from it.
Your dog is going to be a member of your family for many years. So what if it takes a little longer to housetrain him? You may have to use the small room training location for nights until he’s old enough or well trained enough to wait until morning to go potty.
This isn’t the time to weaken and put him in your bed. You’ll both wake up in a chilly puddle. Give him time to adjust to the training, and then you can welcome him to a soft bed in your room, or surrender the extra pillow if you choose.
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Champ: The beagle who helps to heal
By Gina SpadaforiMay 24, 2009
In this morning’s Parade magazine, there’s an article written by our own Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon on Champ, the badly burned beagle who learned to trust and is now sharing that lesson with others:
“We always have had a heart for abused animals,” says Janice Martin, a home health aide from Fair Lawn, N.J., who, along with her husband Mike, a former construction worker, has volunteered at the local animal-rescue organization for 15 years. It was there they met the burned puppy they named Champ and took him in with the intention of fostering him. “We have nursed many abused dogs back to health, and then they go to new homes,” Janice explains.
But from the beginning, the Martins knew taking care of Champ would be different. “When I went to pick up the puppy, I could hardly hold back my tears looking at his red, raw flesh where fur should be,” says Janice. She immediately knew the family had a challenge on its hands. The beagle puppy seemed to have no will to live. And on top of that, Janice’s husband, Mike, was struggling, too.
“I had only recently overcome kidney cancer when I was struck with a massive heart attack,” Mike recalls. “I had to go on disability, which for me was like a prison sentence, and I became depressed. But I dedicated myself to Champ’s care. He cried often, yelping in pain when Janice or I applied cream to his burns.”
Slowly, the dog’s physical injuries healed, and with them one kind of pain subsided. But for both Mike and Champ, there was still plenty of hurt inside.
Read the rest on the Parade Web site, here. And if you’d like to make a donation to the Save The Animals Rescue Team, which covered Champ’s medical expenses, go here.
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